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US Farm Labor Shortage: Affordable and Secure Food Act Fails to Pass in Congress Despite Increasing H-2A Visa Numbers

In the fiscal year 2021, the U.S. issued 258,000 H-2A visas to seasonal farm workers. That number is roughly double the visas issued in 2016. Even though demand and wages are up, supply is still stretched pretty thin, with an estimated 10 percent to 15 percent labor deficit in agriculture nationwide. For these reasons, Sen. Michael Bennet (D-Colo.) introduced the Affordable and Secure Food Act (ASFA) in the lame-duck session in December 2022.

It failed to garner the necessary votes, despite initial support from Sen. Mike Crapo (R-Idaho), to make the final spending bill.

READ: Taming Agriculture’s Energy Hogs 

If passed, the Affordable and Secure Food Act would have streamlined the H-2A program and established a path to citizenship. It also included a freeze on the Adverse Effect Wage Rate (AEWR), the state-by-state pay scale for H-2A workers. The AEWR rose to $16.34 in Colorado for 2023, up from $10.08 in 2013.

Representatives from Sen. Bennet’s office say he remains focused on the issue.

“It is obvious to everyone that our H-2A visa system is completely broken. America’s farms and ranches are short more than 100,000 workers to do the essential work of feeding this country,” Bennet explains in a statement to ColoradoBiz. 

“At the same time, hundreds of thousands of undocumented farm workers live in the shadows of our economy. The status quo is terrible for farm workers, it’s terrible for businesses and farms, and it’s terrible for American families who’ve seen their grocery bills skyrocket as a result of the farm labor crisis. Fixing our immigration system is a matter of economic security, food security and national security — and I will pursue every opportunity to pass my bill to reform the H-2A visa program, support undocumented farm workers, and secure our food supply.”

Many agriculture organizations backed the Affordable and Secure Food Act, including the Rocky Mountain Farmers Union (RMFU). “Not only would it have created a lot more flexibility within the H-2A program, like having staggered entry and an allowance for some year-round visas and some other important changes, changes to the Adverse Effect Wage Rate, but it also created essentially a path to citizenship for folks as well,” says Dan Waldvogle, RMFU’s director of external affairs. “We want to make sure they have a path forward to contribute to society, to raise a family, to make a better life and to pay taxes.”

READ: Colorado Agtech Hits Critical Mass

Waldvogle thinks the window has closed with the current 118th U.S. Congress. “Speaker McCarthy has voiced there likely won’t be immigration bills being brought forward, but it’s a critical question that needs answers and needs reform,” he says. “I was really hoping that we would get the support of some other Western Republican senators. Access to labor is a pretty universal problem in agriculture right now, especially in the West.”

It comes down to money: Only 14 percent of the food dollar goes to producers. “There’s less for keeping a farm or ranch in operation, there’s less for compensating their employees for the work they do,” Waldvogle says. “The big fear we have is we’re going to see some of the folks doing produce now, they’re going to go toward more mechanized production processes. So we’ll see more alfalfa and corn and less fruits and veggies.”

While Waldvogle says the problem needs a federal answer, the state’s enactment of Senate Bill 21-087 (SB21-087) into law two years ago has been met by pushback from many producers for what they term a one-size-fits-all approach.

David Harold of Tuxedo Corn Co. in Olathe recalls asking his banker if SB21-087 was going to make it harder to recruit seasonal workers. “He said, ‘This is the least of your problems. It doesn’t matter what law they pass, you’re going to have to raise your rates and redo how you think about labor, because Mexico’s middle class is growing.’”

Founded by John Harold, David’s father in 1986, Tuxedo Corn harvests sweet corn from 1,500 acres in the Olathe area with the help of 150 seasonal H-2A workers, largely from Mexico, every year. 

John’s reputation “for being a fair guy,” David says, has made it relatively easy to recruit workers to harvest sweet corn. Many people have worked for Tuxedo Corn seasonally for more than 30 years.

The sweet corn Tuxedo Corn grows is too tender to be mechanically harvested. The operation could switch to a different cultivar to automate the process, but that’s not on the table. “We’d rather work with people than machines,” David says. 

As the AEWR increases, “It’s getting harder and harder,” David says. “I’m surviving. I’ve raised my price.” The price of a box of corn has increased by about 50 percent since the AEWR was $9.88 in 2009, he notes.

Now growing peaches and wine grapes on 550 acres, Bruce Talbott’s family has farmed in Palisade since 1946. Labor is currently about 80 percent of Talbott Farms’ costs using H-2A workers primarily from Mexico and Honduras.

Talbott says the business left the H-2A program for three years after an audit he terms “a witch hunt” about a decade ago, but it could not rely on the local labor pool and re-entered the program circa 2015. “After three years, it didn’t matter how big a target we had on our back,” he says. “If we don’t do H-2A, we’ve got to quit planting peaches. We can’t get them harvested.”

Talbott Farms needs 40 workers for the growing season and another 20 for the harvest. A family-owned packing shed is not eligible for H-2A workers because it packs for other producers as well. “If we don’t pack for anybody else and maroon our neighbors, we are allowed to bring H-2A into the shed. We really hate to do that, but in the end, we may have no other choice.”

Talbott says the time for federal action is now.

“We need to update the [H-2A] program,” he says. “We’re going to have one shot at this. It’s taken 30 years to have the discussion at this level. If we get a Band-Aid, we’ll probably not hear about it for another 10 or 20 years.”

Talbott highlights a schism that makes reform difficult. “California’s highly diversified: There are 200 crops in the Central Valley and the San Joaquin Valley, and you have contractors that go around to work on citrus to stone fruits to lettuce to strawberries,” he notes. “Colorado and the Eastern United States, we don’t have a year-round ability to keep people, so they have to come and go seasonally.”

“The East Coast wants a good program. The West Coast wants legalization of the current workforce. I’m grossly oversimplifying it, but that’s the battle that’s gone on in agriculture, and if agriculture can’t come to an agreement, then everybody else says, ‘Why should we support this?’”

Marc Arnusch’s family has farmed in the Keenesburg area for more than 70 years. “Our family’s been in this area since 1952, when my grandparents came here from Austria,” Arnusch says. “Ironically, they came to this area as farm labor. They worked in the sugar beet fields, they worked on dairy farms, and livestock operations, and were able to buy their own farming operation in the late ‘50s.”

In 2012, Arnusch Farms’ 4,000-acre operation pivoted from onions to wheat and barley, largely for the state’s booming craft brewing industry, along with alfalfa and corn silage. The move was largely motivated by labor, or lack thereof. While onions required hand labor from about 300 seasonal workers to plant and harvest, grains can be mechanized and computerized.

“We had lost a number of crops that sat out in the field because we simply didn’t have workers to help harvest the crop,” Arnusch says. “We were simply looking for a skill that didn’t exist then and doesn’t appear like it exists now in the workforce, and that’s the skill of endurance. Doing something over and over and over again, for weeks and sometimes months on end.”

He adds, “If I had a more reliable supply or access to labor, I would definitely change my crop mix back to more value-added agriculture, but one that was more dependent on labor.”

Arnusch says the Affordable and Secure Food Act “makes sense,” and sees a disconnect between Washington, D.C., and the realities of the rest of the country. “We have a lot of workers who are making their way to the Denver metropolitan area — by the busload,” he notes. “How can we start targeting or directing some of those people to build positions here in rural Colorado? We need it.”

 

Denver-based writer Eric Peterson is the author of Frommer’s Colorado, Frommer’s Montana & Wyoming, Frommer’s Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks and the Ramble series of guidebooks, featuring first-person travelogues covering everything from atomic landmarks in New Mexico to celebrity gone wrong in Hollywood. Peterson has also recently written about backpacking in Yosemite, cross-country skiing in Yellowstone and downhill skiing in Colorado for such publications as Denver’s Westword and The New York Daily News. He can be reached at [email protected]

Colorado Agtech Hits Critical Mass

A third-generation Colorado farmer, Marc Arnusch grows barley and other grains on 2,200 acres in the Prospect Valley east of Keenesburg. 

His son, Brett, joined Marc Arnusch Farms after he graduated from Colorado State University’s College of Agricultural Sciences in 2018. “We didn’t know if he’d come back to the farm or not,” Arnusch says. 

But Brett did come back to the farm, and as the chief technology officer implemented soil moisture probes and drone imaging. He also helped develop proprietary software to manage the farm’s operations. 

“Halfway through college, he discovered there was a whole new environment in production agriculture on the tech side,” Marc Says. 

Brett has implemented precision technology in the farm’s irrigation system while integrating a wide range of data on planting schedules, weather and crop protection into the farm’s decision-making process. 

“He’s really helped us find next-level efficiencies,” Marc says. “We’re just making decisions quicker, and decisions are made easier.” 

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One example: Soil moisture probes revealed some hail-stricken crops were not going to survive in summer 2018, so the farm turned off the spigots and other inputs. “We knew the crop was giving it up, and that saved us a significant amount of investment that ordinarily we would have put into the crop,” Marc says. 

Marc says he likes to be a smart adopter instead of an early one, but notes that the farm—and agriculture as a whole—is often on the cutting edge. “We’ve had autonomous, self-driving tractors since the early 2000s,” he notes. “Adopting the right technology on our farm has rewarded us so far.” 

The operation is currently beta-testing a sensor-driven irrigation system to more efficiently water the crops. “It’s basically looking inside the plant we can’t get inside of as farmers and agronomists.” 

“Without question, I would say technology has reduced our dependence on labor, and we’re coming up with better quality,” Marc says. “We have to continue to adopt these technologies to survive, evolve and innovate.”

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He adds, “Sustainability starts with having a profit, because if we can’t meet our obligations to others, we’re not going to be here.” 

Arnusch Farms is not unique. “Agriculture’s always been technologically sophisticated, it just doesn’t look like it to the outside observer,” says Gregory Graff, who has been researching the rise in investment in agtech at Colorado State University for nearly a decade. “People see lots of mud and broken-down equipment and stuff like that.” 

Annual worldwide investment in agtech was hovering around $200 million until it took off starting in 2007 and exploded when Monsanto bought weather modeling startup The Climate Corp. in 2013 for about $1 billion. 

“Suddenly, cha-ching!” says Graff, a professor in CSU’s Department of Agricultural and Resource Economics. “Venture capital more or less drank the Kool-Aid, whatever analogy you want, but they really bought the storyline that agriculture was an undiscovered behemoth of an industry ripe for disruption technologically.” 

While noting there was “a bit of hubris” in the investment community’s mindset, Graff points to AgFunder’s 2022 report as a sign of the times: It pegged foodtech and agtech investments at $52 billion worldwide in 2021, up a whopping 86% over 2020. Agtech is about a third of that, give or take.  

The numbers depend, of course, on what you count: Most agtech can be categorized as biotech, chemistry, software or mechanics, but some analysts lump in B2C platforms and other food-centric models. “It’s so diffuse, nobody understands how big it is,” Graff says. “And the venture capital investment has absolutely surged since that 2013 shot over the bow. These last 10 years have seen a runup of enormous scale.” 

How has all of this investment affected farmers and ranchers? “It’s given them password anxiety,” laughs Graff.  

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Passwords aside, he adds, “I think what you’ve seen the farmers doing is adopting piecemeal and pretty conservatively relative to what the tech optimists would have liked—or even would want you to believe, especially if you’re a VC investor thinking about putting money into them.” 

Regardless, Colorado is at the forefront, with an agtech cluster that’s gaining international attention. Startup Genome ranked Denver-Boulder fifth in the world for its agtech and food startup ecosystem in its 2022 report on the sector. “I can say confidently we’re one of the leading hubs in the country,” notes Graff, who tracks 110 active agtech companies in the state. “Silicon Valley always wins, no matter what, but they’re winning by less and less lately.” 

Saving labor with wireless cameras 

And many of Colorado’s ag-focused startups are gaining traction. Take Barn Owl Tech in Colorado Springs. Founder and CEO Josh Phifer was raised on livestock ranches in Wyoming and Nebraska. “I grew up with the problems of having assets spread out over dozens if not hundreds of square miles,” he says. 

After Phifer served in the U.S. Air Force, he saw the possibility of using wireless cameras on farms and ranches during his military experience and launched Barn Owl in 2016. 

“At a large farm or ranch, they spend about 30% of their labor literally just checking on things, driving around and checking on things,” Phifer says. “If you have a fully deployed set of cameras, you can cut that down by more than half, so you’re saving 15 to 20 percent of your overall labor. If you grew up in ranching, you know there’s always more work to do, so it’s not that we’re replacing labor, we’re just giving the time back to do more effective and
efficient things.”  

Revenue has been increasing at an annual clip of 250% in recent years, Phifer says, with about 60% of sales going to agricultural customers.  

“Farming has become very technology-dependent, everything from automated tractors to GPS-guided fertilizing and planting,” Phifer says. “The livestock side tends to be a little more old-school. Just by the nature of raising young animals, it has to be a more hands-on operation.”

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Not that livestock operations don’t have increasingly innovative options: Australia-based AgriWebb, offering livestock ranchers a cloud-based platform to manage their operations, chose Denver over Austin, Dallas and Salt Lake City for its North American headquarters in 2020. 

Denver “is the confluence of all of the things we were looking for,” says AgriWebb CEO Kevin Baum. “It’s got a great, thriving and growing technology scene, it is a regional headquarters for so many ag businesses and partners, it is geographically near where our market is in the middle of the country, it has a hub airport, and it’s a great place to live. It ticked all of our boxes, and it wasn’t much of a competition.”

Baum says livestock ranching has historically been “largely run by anecdote, which is a theme we’ve found all around the world. Most farms are managed on pen and paper.” 

AgriWebb has gained traction since launching the platform in Australia in late 2015. “There was rapid adoption,” Baum says. “We’ve got about 12,000 users today. Right now, we’ve got about 17.5 million animals on the platform, which is eight times our closest competitor.” 

The first employee in Denver, Coby Buck is a fifth-generation rancher. His family’s Wray Ranch in northeastern Colorado became an AgriWebb user soon after he joined the company, and it immediately paid dividends. 

“They realized they were overfeeding their cattle in winter,” Baum says. “It was just bang! $80,000 in annual savings.” 

That sort of anecdote has been part of the industry for millennia. “Agriculture has been developing technology since the beginning. It’s the original technology. That’s how you keep up,” he says. 

“The next wave of that is digital adoption. Data is a tool. It is not a replacement. You still need that farmer, you still need that expertise, you need someone who knows what to do with the data.” 

 

Denver-based writer Eric Peterson is the author of Frommer’s Colorado, Frommer’s Montana & Wyoming, Frommer’s Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks and the Ramble series of guidebooks, featuring first-person travelogues covering everything from atomic landmarks in New Mexico to celebrity gone wrong in Hollywood. Peterson has also recently written about backpacking in Yosemite, cross-country skiing in Yellowstone and downhill skiing in Colorado for such publications as Denver’s Westword and The New York Daily News. He can be reached at [email protected]

Agriculture Report: Breaking new ground

Ag Report Gleason

It’s mid-May, and Max Fields is planting peas in the magnificent Animas Valley north of Durango. It’s a tedious task, done by hand, one seed per inch for 1,000 row feet. But there are perks, not least of which is working outdoors surrounded by the San Juan mountains of Southwest Colorado, and the satisfaction of working for oneself. 

Being able to reap the fruits of our labor is a huge thing for me,” Fields says. You build something up every year, and you either see the success or you don’t. But if you’re good at what you do, then you do see success and you can look back on a lot of hard work and feel good about it.” 

Fields and business partner James Plate are good at what they do. (And yes, Fields and Plate are their real names.) Friends since kindergarten, they are first-generation farmers and ranchers (they also raise sheep). Little if anything in their backgrounds suggested they’d pursue careers in agriculture, much less succeed at it. Both grew up in Denver, attended East High School and then enrolled at Fort Lewis College in Durango.   

Ag Report
Fields to Plate Produce

James was studying agriculture when we first got here, and I started taking some ag classes,” Fields says. We met some farmers and started farming with them and just kind of fell into it. We saw some gaps in what other farmers were doing in this area and felt like we had a good chance to fill those gaps. And we really have. We’ve become one of the more reliable organic farms and probably one of the larger small-scale organic farms in the area.” 

Fields credits Beth LaShell, an instructor in the ag department at Fort Lewis College and current coordinator of Old Fort at Hesperus, the site of an ag incubator program where Fields and Plate got some early firsthand experience on how to run a farm and make it work financially.  

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Fields to Plate Produce

Fields and Plate have operated Fields to Plate Produce since 2013. They’ve been on their current site in Animas Valley for four years where they lease 120 acres, 10 of which is used to grow certified organic vegetables, the rest for raising about 300 sheep and growing hay. 

Their main crops are carrots, beets, parsnip, potatoes and winter squash. They also produce a lot of broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage. To compensate for a high-altitude (6,600-foot elevation) and a frost-free season of fewer than 100 days, most of the harvest takes place in the fall. Vegetables are kept in a cold-storage root cellar and sold throughout the winter. Fields and Plate, who both turn 30 this year, work with two wholesalers – one in Montrose, the other in Aspen – who distribute their produce throughout the Western Slope and as far east as Colorado Springs. 

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Fields to Plate Produce

The business is profitable and continually evolving. This year, Fields to Plate Produce is experimenting with on-farm dinners. We’re on the river, and we have all the farm-fresh ingredients,” Fields says. We can butcher our own sheep and do a straight farm-to-table dinner experience. We’re doing it for friends and family now, to get it dialed in to the point where we can charge a premium for a ticket. 

We’re always reinvesting,” Fields continues. We only have one employee, so we’re just trying to make our processes as efficient and mechanized as possible so we don’t necessarily have to hire a whole lot more people to maintain a productive farm.” 

Breaking Barriers 

Colorado is among the top states for first-generation farms and ranches, with 31% of ag operations categorized as beginning” producers. That makes Colorado tied for fifth among all states for percentage of farms and ranches in the state that are startups. 

Kate Greenberg worked with young and first-generation farmers and ranchers all over the West before being appointed Colorado Commissioner of Agriculture two years ago, and she continues to work with them. What attracts someone to this life? 

A lot of the commonalities I’ve seen over the years are the desire to run your own business, basically to be your own boss; and a desire to not just know where your food comes from but be the one who’s growing and raising your own food and the food for your community,” Greenberg says. A lot of the first-generation producers I’ve worked with are actually multi-generation producers who have skipped a generation or two. So a lot of them can remember grandparents who had farms or ranches or stories of their families’ farms or ranches. And they’re looking to get back, not to what it was, but back to a sense of that connectedness with the ground, with the earth, with the natural world and all the factors that allow us to eat on planet Earth.” 

But the barriers to making a living off the land can be steep. The top barrier across the country, including Colorado, for first-generation producers, is access to land and capital,” Greenberg says. And access to land is typically a capital question – having the cash to buy the land. Those are challenges we’ve faced for a long time, and we’re not seeing substantial alleviation, just based on the market for land in Colorado. But there are efforts, certainly at the policy level, to try to alleviate some of that. I think beyond that, training and education is often a barrier. There are ways to minimize that barrier. We’re trying to do that with our ag workforce development program, which is a paid apprenticeship program. So they actually get their hands dirty on an ag operation, and then they can say after a six- or nine-month internship, ‘Actually this isn’t for me; I’m going to do something else,’ or they can say, ‘Oh, man, this is absolutely for me, and now I have an in” with an ag family or an ag business, and I have a resource hub where I can access more tools for taking the next steps.’” 

From Film Maker to Western Slope Orchardist 

Harrison Topp and his wife and partner, Stacia Cannon, own and operate Topp Fruits, a 40-acre certified organic orchard operation divided between 15 acres in Paonia and 25 acres in Hotchkiss. As with Fields and Plate, there was nothing in Topp’s upbringing that would have suggested a livelihood in farming. He grew up in Evergreen, then attended New York University, graduating in 2009 with a double major in film and television production and anthropology. 

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Topp Fruits’ Stacia Cannon and Harrison Topp

He then spent three years working on a film project in Western North Carolina about Appalachian culture that resulted in the feature-length film, If I had Wings to Fly.” It was during that immersion in agrarian culture that he became interested in farming as a livelihood. 

I love the intersectionality of agriculture,” Topp says. I love how agriculture exists at the intersection of the environment and the economy and society and culture, and simultaneously you can hop in a new GPS-driven tractor, yet use a shovel that your great-great-great grandpa used. We’re first-generation, but for most people, farming contains both this incredible heritage and tradition as well as this very modern future. It’s an extremely intersectional industry, and I think I’ve always loved the opportunity and challenge that provides.” 

Topp spent a few years farming mostly vegetables for a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) in North Carolina before returning to Colorado and making plans for cultivating the 15-acre orchard in Paonia that his family owned but was not operating. The tenants who were leasing the property were going to be vacating it, making it available to Topp. His first harvest in 2013 was a success. But farming fortunes are nothing if not fickle. The next year, a spring freeze hit just as his trees were in full bloom, ruining his crop.  

Still, he says, There’s a lot of things about orcharding that I realized are really advantageous, including our ability to participate in federal programs.” Among them: Loan programs, resource management programs. Those became accessible to me with a slightly more to-scale commercial orchard than when I was doing the smaller-scale vegetable growing.” 

Topp explains that while 40 acres would be very small for a commodity vegetable operation or livestock ranch, it’s about mid-scale for a commercial orchard. 

He continues, And beyond the logistical pieces of it, once I really learned what it was like to grow a fresh, wonderful juicy peach and see other people eat that and enjoy it, there was nothing else that felt that good. It was just the most fun thing in the world to grow. 

It’s a rewarding but extremely challenging enterprise,” he says. But one that we’re really dedicated to. We’re dedicated to being a part of the food system.” 

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Topp Fruits

Topp and Cannon both have jobs off the farm. Topp works full-time as membership director of the Rocky Mountain Farmers Union; Cannon is on the board of directors for the Delta Montrose Electric Association. 

Asked how his education at NYU has come into play in agriculture, he says, I think the thing that has translated from film school, both to the farm and to my work at the farmers union, is developing a vision and having the project-management skills to execute that vision. When we made our film in Western North Carolina, we worked with 50 to 100 volunteers and cast. If I took away anything from my experience learning how to make films, it’s about how to realize the final vision of a project. There’s the creative side and there’s the project-management side. And I’d like to think I bring a little bit of both of those to what I do. You definitely need the ability to work with people, the ability to work in systems, the ability to coordinate and plan projects.” 

Topp, 34, has no shortage of reasons why farming appeals to him. One is family. Topp’s parents are both actively involved in the operations; his brother is a part-owner. 

We’re running the farm as a business, we’re running it for the values we want to bring to agriculture and our food system,” Topp says. But also, though it’s not the purpose of the farm, we’ve learned that the farm really challenges us to have a deeper and more important relationship.”  

Pueblo Enterprise Started as Teen  

Shane Milberger’s start in commodity agriculture began in 1986 when he was a 17-year-old high school student. Encouraged by his father, he leased several acres from a neighbor, grew vegetables on it and soon after that, bought a small tractor. 

We grew everything you’d see at a farmers market or flea market, because that was where I sold them,” Milberger says. 

Today, Milberger Farms encompasses 280 acres, much of it certified organic, on St. Charles Mesa near Pueblo. Milberger likes to say that his crops span the alphabet from asparagus to zucchini, but his specialty crops are pinto beans and a variety of chiles.  

His primary customers are produce markets, restaurants, retail grocery stores throughout Colorado, wholesale produce distributors and commercial food manufacturers. 

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Milberger Farms

In 2009, Milberger and son Dalton opened a small produce stand on Business U.S. 50, east of Pueblo. Over time, they built that into a deli-style restaurant with a salad bar and bakery. 

The latest development on the farm is a line of fire-roasted chiles, vacuumed packed and flash-frozen in a commercial processing plant built specifically to process chiles throughout the harvest season.  

Milberger runs the farm and the store (including the restaurant) as separate businesses. The store employs 25 people at its peak. 

On the farm, if we could find them, we would employ up to about 35 people,” Milberger says. But at the moment we only have 20 people, and we’re actually short-staffed. We can’t keep up with the harvest at the moment.” 

Milberger says in his younger years he was running with the wrong crowd. He credits his father for steering him away from that, toward agriculture. 

The group of guys I was running around with – three of them ended up in prison out of the four of them,” Milberger says. I always have to show my dad gratitude for seeing what was going on. He sort of pushed me into farming. What it did was allow me a lot of freedom. More freedom than what a 17-year-old should have. On the other hand, it gave me a lot of responsibility. And I enjoyed it. The older guys who ran all the roadside stands actually took me in under their arms and kicked me in the ass when I needed it and told me I did a good job when I did. And they sort of helped me out with marketing some of my products, telling me why I shouldn’t have grown this and why I should have grown something else.”  

Asked to assess the current state of farming, Milberger responds, It’s just really a tough game. I was raised not to give up. I should have given up farming two or three times, but I just couldn’t do it. And I’m glad I didn’t.” 

Milberger’s son Dalton, now 24, is interested in continuing the family farming tradition that Milberger started. 

Asked if he still sees farming as an attractive livelihood, Milberger says, Half the time yes and half the time no. It is a good career. It’s fun. You’re with your family. His (Dalton’s) wife is our bookkeeper. He had a son a couple years ago, and now he’s on the farm every day, running around. You can’t go get a job and have your family with you like that. So for those benefits, it’s awesome, it’s great. My other son runs my store. Financially, it’s very stressful and very hard. We worked our tail off this spring; we’ve got our crops ready to go. They’re ready to harvest and I can’t find enough people to harvest. So we’ve actually abandoned part of our fields already that should have been harvested. It’s sort of heartbreaking because we worked so hard to get this ready to go, and it’s a beautiful crop – asparagus. It’s a very hot commodity. Everybody wants it. That’s why we grow it, because we can sell it. And we couldn’t because we didn’t have the help.”  

Sarah Gleason: Marketing Guru-Turned Bison Rancher 

After 10 years as a marketing specialist for companies that included Whole Foods and the Savory Institute, Sarah Gleason got into bison ranching full-time a little more than a year ago. At the Boulder-based Savory Institute, she worked with farmers and ranchers worldwide and learned about regenerating grasslands through holistic land management. Now she’s one of those ranchers.  

Located 15 miles southwest of Durango, Gleason Bison is a holistically managed, grass-fed bison operation. Our desire is to weave together the relationship between the animals, the environment and the community resulting in an intimate knowledge of where your meat comes from and the essential role the animals play in creating a healthy ecosystem,” says Gleason, 35. 

Ag Report Gleason Bison

Gleason Bison operates on just under 900 acres. Gleason has a 10-year lease on the property, with a right of first refusal if the owners decide to sell it. 

As with other first-generation farmers and ranchers profiled here, there was little if anything in Gleason’s upbringing to indicate she’d develop an interest in working on the land. A Division I athlete, Gleason swam for Texas Christian University and earned a degree in political science. She grew up in Colorado Springs where here father was a health-care executive. Her father-in-law is a lawyer, and her husband is a physician. I’d have to go back generations to find the last farmer or rancher in my family,” she says.